The Delhi Way Tours: Qutub Complex

A young bunch of Bangaloreans explore Delhi.

It was a beautiful sunny day to walk through the Qutub complex. While the Minar is the most popular structure here, the complex has a host of other treasures - one of the 1st mosques that was infact made from material of hindu & jain temples, the Smith's folly that was once atop the Qutub Minar, the mysterious iron pillar that doesn't rust, the dome-less but exquisite tomb of Illtutmish, a half constructed minar close by - the Alai Minar & so much more... 

The few hours spent at the beautiful complex completely transported us to a different era. We strolled as if spellbound, took loads of photographs, were greeted by parrots perched on the old ruins, we wondered aloud how such a tall structure was constructed in the 12th century without cranes & todays hi-tech machinery, how a 6000kg iron pillar was erected here...

We ended this memorable day with a drink at one of the restaurants overlooking this wonder.

With Mohit, Kinnary & Rohit

 

 

Bazaars & Markets of Delhi

Here we're talking about markets that are mainly street shops, and not housed within the four walls of a mall building. And therefore, we say Delhi's markets have 'character'. Each is different from the other in terms of the kinds of outlets, the products they offer, the brands & the restaurants.

DILLI HAAT.

An open-air food & craft bazaar, Dilli Haat exhibits a variety of thatched roof stalls from almost every region in India. You’ll find beautiful hand paintings from Bihar, retro sarees from Chatissgarh, bright-embroidered umbrellas from Rajasthan, brassware to Kolahpuri chappals (sandals) and Pashmina shawls from Kashmir.

Besides all the fabulous shopping, can’t miss mentioning the variety in food available here – you can get to try different cuisines from the different states of India. Mouthwatering momos from Sikkim, crisp dosas from Tamil Nadu, pao bhaji from Maharashtra to Hyderabadi biryani to name a few…

Attractions. Look out for cultural events & programs.

Entrance Fee. Rs 20/- for an adult. Rs. 10/- for children.
Where. Sri Aurobindo Marg, Opp INA Market

JANPATH & TIBETAN MARKET.

Janpath is a popular & lively area with several street shops – with both fixed & makeshift stalls. It’s a paradise for ethnic goodies like paintings, Indian artifacts, brassware & handicrafts. Besides this there are plenty of cheap jewellery shops with some fabulous pieces. The market also houses one of the largest clothes export-surplus street shops in Delhi with all international labels (ie cutoff labels) available here. Walk towards the Tibetan market & find a spread of colorful embroidered fabrics ranging from bed spreads to lamp shades to embroidered patches to match your outfits to even embroidered shoes (juttis) & umbrellas.

Tip No. 1. Use your bargaining skills to get a good price.

Tip No. 2. Try the cold coffee at D’Pauls, its delicious & a ritual with Delhi-ites.

Closed. On Sundays

Where. Janpath, off Connaught Place 

KHAN MARKET.

While it is one of the most expensive street shops in the world – but you’ll find both a street vendor selling fruits & veggies on the side of the road & a well known designer selling through his flagship store located right in the centre. Khan market is small & cozy, with loyal shoppers who ONLY come to here. Book shops have been a part of this market since ages along with tailors & dry cleaners; today it’s known for its branded stores, small designer outlets, quirky ethnic shops & cafes. You’ll also find street shops which sell sandals/ chappals to beautiful ‘junk’ jewellery at very reasonable prices.  

What to Buy. Books from Full Circle or BahriSons. Sunglasses from Dayal or Drishti. Fusion ‘cotton’ wear from Fab India or Anokhi. Home décor from Oma or Good Earth or Renovation Factory. Real Jewellery from Amrapali or Fake jewellery from the street side.
Closed. On Sundays

Where. Off Lodi Colony, Opp Golf Links 

CHANDNI CHOWK.

One of the oldest shopping districts which was built in the 17^th century and was part of the Mughal city of Shahjahanabad. Walking through the narrow winding alleys can be quite an adventure! Chandni Chowk bazaar has several lanes each designated to a specific product. Bhagirath Palace is a haven for electronics. Fabrics rule the Katra Neel lane. Dariba Kalan is known for its silverware & silver jewellery. If you’re getting married then you need to head towards Kinari Bazaar for all the wedding gear & Nai Sarak for wedding cards. And our favourite place - Khari Baoli, has spices and is one of Asia’s largest spice markets.

Lastly, if you’re daring enough- try the street food here, a variety available at every corner.

Warning. It’s not for the weak, as its quite crowded & the alleys are very narrow.
Closed. On Sundays

Where. Old Delhi 

LAJPAT NAGAR.

Name it and you get it here. Though it’s primarily known for material for Indian outfits, so whether you’re a fashion designer or making an outfit for yourself – this is the place to go to for fabric & other embellishments. And as mentioned earlier you will still manage to get everything here from jewellery to upholstery to readymade & reasonably priced Indian wear (salwaar kameez, lehengas etc) to food items to electronics to household appliances… the list can go on & on.

Tip No. 1. Use your bargaining skills whether in the stalls or the showrooms.

Tip No. 2. Get mehendi applied on your hands & have a bite of the momos from the popular Tibetan carts.
Closed. On Mondays

Where: Near Ashram Chowk, Opp Defence Colony 

SANTUSHTI SHOPPING COMPLEX.

Elegant, sophisticated, tasteful. Santushti has over a few dozen boutiques spread across an open area that is interspersed with green laws & stoned pathways. The stores can be best described as lovely little bungalows or huts. The boutiques range from silk scarves & bags at Christina’s, pashmina shawls at K, cigars at Kastro's, block printed fusion wear at Anokhi, bright cushions & other accessories at Nur & many more. An oasis amongst the crowded Delhi markets.

Warning. Photography & haggling strictly not allowed.

Food. The only restaurant, the famous Basil & Thymes tucked away in the corner.

Closed. On Sundays

Where. Heart of Lutyens, Opp Hotel Ashoka 

HAUZ KHAS VILLAGE.

Located amidst 14^th century heritage structures, which include tombs, a madrasa & the breathtaking royal tank. Today’s urban village is home to several eclectic young designers exhibiting their passion through innovative products made of re-usable paper, fashion that breaks the conventional norm, art that explodes your imagination, vintage posters that bring life into the old, jewellery that makes a statement – in short this market oozes creativity, talent & innovation.

Tip No. 1. It’s a maze, so walk around ‘bindaas’ & you’ll discover something in every corner.

Tip No. 2. Take a stroll around the Deer Park & the lake.

Food. Not only shopping, but a haven for food lovers – Yeti for Tibetan cuisine, Naivedyam for South Indian, Boheme & Amour for its exquisite view (& ofcourse its delicious food) and plenty of cafes & bakeries.

Closed. On Sundays

Where. Hauz Khas 

SAROJINI NAGAR MARKET.

One of the city’s most popular export-surplus markets, where you can buy ‘branded’ clothes at unbelievable prices. The area is packed with makeshift street shops, selling a range of fashion wear – jumpsuits, dresses, tops, skirts, linen shirts, cargoes… An absolute paradise for the budget shopper.

Tip. You can have a successful shopping trip only if you bargain with all your might.

Closed. On Mondays

Where. Near INA 

CONNAUGHT PLACE.

The commercial & financial hub of the city often referred to as CP. The Victorian style structure was completed in 1931 and was named after the Duke of Connaught. Today, it has been renamed as Rajeev Chowk (after the late Prime Minister). CP is in the form of rings comprising of inner and outer circle. Besides offices & headquarters of leading firms, CP is also a popular shopping destination with stores that house international brands, restaurants, pubs and cinema halls. The Central Cottage Industries Emporium off CP is famous for its handicrafts. Also there are state-run emporiums at Baba Kharak Singh Marg that offer state specific products.

Tip. One of the oldest eateries – Wengers, very popular amongst Delhi-ites.

Closed. On Sundays

Where. Central Delhi

SO HAPPY SHOPPING!!

Delhi’s Rapid Development – The Rapid Transit System – Metro

I am in my car with an American friend who is vising Delhi from the USA. While he is excitedly devouring the sites of Dilli in the moving car, the discussion went on to how Delhi maintains the magnificent balance between a progressive developed city and an enriched historical core. One such example that he alluded was that of the omnipresent Metro line that ran along the length of our journey.

Yes, the Delhi Metro. A cornerstone of development symbolized by the brilliantly elevated and underground rail lines, vigorously zigzagging through the landscape of Delhi, somewhere touching the blue hues of the sky and somewhere, deep inside the earth, infusing life from 6 am to 11 pm every day. It’s been a historical journey since 2002 to make this milestone leap towards modernization of the transportation system of Delhi which has put us on the International map as having one of the most technologically advanced Mass Rapid Transit System’s in the world.

It’s cheap, it’s convenient and it’s safe! An average Delhite who fought traffic hurdles with limited and over-crowded public transport buses, and sometimes waited for hours to get a transport ride back home or to his work place, today, pays anything between Rs. 8 to Rs 30, to reach his destination in the shortest possible time. The trains travel at an average of 80km/hour with each train’s average frequency being three minutes! There is special ladies compartment which is unheard of anywhere in the world!! There are ‘pink’ signs on the platform to indicte the ladies compartment which is either at the start of the finish of the platform. The ladies compartment saves  you from the hustle bustle of the other compartments.

In terms of area coverage, it is forecasted that the Delhi Metro will be bigger than the London Underground by 2021, the year of completion of the last phase of the project. In terms of ridership, it’s growing every day. While Tokyo subway system has the maximum passenger rides of 3.1 billion in a year, followed by Moscow Metro, NYC subway system and London Underground, the Delhi metro is close to their heels with 459 million passenger rides in year 2010-11.

We as citizens of this modern metropolis, today, have a choice to use the most advanced and reliable form of public transport thanks to the Delhi Metro. You may be enjoying a morning stroll in Hauz Khas market, pouring over the artefacts, or Connaught place eating at your favourite restaurant or in Chandi Chowk market, buying spices; one thing is for sure, you will not be thinking of how you will get home/hotel, reliving the fear of over-priced taxis and over-crowded buses. You will walk down to the nearest Metro station, and be greeted by smiling attendants.

Delhi’s advancement in public transport has arrived and it will soon overtake the world. A Case study we will be proud to tell and re-tell for years to come!!

Some useful links, if you are planning to travel by the metro in the future:

For Info (coverage/fares/passenger): http://www.delhimetrorail.com/commuters_guide.aspx

For Delhi Metro timing: http://www.delhimetrorail.com/metro_timing.aspx

For Delhi Metro Stations: http://www.delhimetrorail.com/station-info.aspx

Insights into the Delhi Metro by Sukhmani - http://sukhmanipantal.blogspot.in/

Fragile threads that are stronger than iron chains!

Yes, this is the belief in India and can be witnessed on Rakhi, the 2^nd of Aug 2012.

FESTIVALS/CUSTOMS.

Rakhi is an extremely popular & probably the most emotional festival in India. It celebrates the relationship between brother & sister or should I say it’s a smart way for sisters to make some money! Read on & you’ll know exactly what I mean.

The ceremony. The sister ties a sacred thread (rakhi) on her brother’s wrist. This symbolises the sister’s love for her brother & in turn the brother promises to protect her forever. The sister gives a sweet (mithai) to the brother and he gives her a gift (primarily money!!). And this is why girls LOVE this festival! I’m kidding… there’s actually a lot of emotional bonding, a day when families get together, it’s a tear-jerker event for sure.

Other names. This festival is also called ‘Raksha Bandhan’ which means ‘bond of protection’.

Preparation. The groundwork for Rakhi starts much earlier than the day it falls. The bazaars are overflowing with colorful Rakhis in a variety of designs. A special tray (thaali) on which the Rakhi is placed is prepared the night before with a diya (candle), red powder & rice and sweets (though the sweets on my thaali usually finish before I reach my brother’s house). For sisters who are unable to meet their brothers on this day, send Rakhi by post or send e-cards. Offices, schools & colleges are all shut on this day. 

The brother. The girl not only ties Rakhi to her real brother, but also to all her cousin brothers. Of late, tying Rakhi to a guy whom you consider like a brother is also common – this relationship is termed as ‘muh bola bhai’ i.e. regarded as brother, but not related by blood.

The younger lots compete to see who has the maximum number of Rakhis/ sisters. It’s actually a pleasure walking down the road in the afternoon where you catch boys & grown up men showing off their Rakhis. It’s a rather sweet sight. Though in schools you’ll usually find boys staying away or literally running away from the girls as they don’t want to be made their brothers!!

It’s customary for the guys to keep the Rakhi on till it falls off by itself, so sometimes they have it on for a year. Though most bend the rules now!

The Rakhi. The Rakhi has evolved over the years from being just a simple red thread to expensive gold bands. Moreover, there are special Rakhis for kids that come in the form of various known cartoon characters, action figures (Batman, Spiderman, Pokemon, cool cars etc).

Origins. There are several stories related to this festival and its origins, here are a few:

The Aryans. Like all other Indian festivals, Raksha Bandhan too has a long historical background. Its history goes back to the early days of the arrival of the Aryans in India. The Aryans performed Yajnas (ritual of sacrifice/ prayers) before going to wars to invoke the blessings of the Gods. Before the men departed for the battlefield, their womenfolk tied sacred threads or amulets to protect them and also to uphold the honor of their tribe. This is how the custom of Raksha Bandhan seems to have originated.

Alexander, the great. It is said that when Alexander invaded India in 326 B.C., his wife Roxxanne, fearing Alexander's safety, sent a sacred thread to the King Porus (an Indian king), requesting him not to hurt her husband during the battle. Keeping the oath, Porus restrained from delivering the final blow to Alexander and personally kept him out of harm's way.

Mughal Emperor Humayun. Hindu queens sent Rakhis even to Mughal kings who, despite their differences, have offered help and protection to their Rakhi-sisters at critical moments and honoured the fraternal bond. Some say that Rakhi became popular again when Rani Karnavati, the widowed queen of Chittor, sent a Rakhi to the Mughal emperor Humayun when she required his help (making good use of the sacred thread)!!

A simple fragile thread that creates strong emotional bonds! Here’s a thought, may be husbands & wives and presidents of different nations can try it out as well. Divorce rates may come down & nations may genuinely start protecting each other.

God is everywhere...

Yes, we Indians believe we can reach God just about anywhere.

Once an evergreen tree (located in Delhi NCR), today a mini-temple! What's left of this 15year old tree is a bare bark and a few green leaves.  So you might wonder how this tree became a place of worship. Well, its quite simple. Someone a couple of years back placed a statue or two of the Indian idols here, and one thing just led to another. The caretaker of this temple, has now become a self-proclaimed priest. The people of this neighborhood have become superstitious about this place of worship & have been offering prayers over the years.

The tree or temple (whatever you might call it) has a new addition, its now also become a wishing site, just like the ‘wishing well’, but you don’t throw a coin to make a wish, instead here you tie a red thread around the tree to make a wish. Once the wish is fulfilled you return to the tree temple and untie the thread.

Delhi has many such stories, come and experience it with us, log onto www.thedelhiway.com for more details.

Some useful, some fun Hindi words for travellers...

DELHI LINGO. While HIndi is the official language and spoken by most people in Delhi; you will also hear snap shots of Punjabi, Bengali, Urdu etc. English is the official language of the corporate community. And a new language ‘Hinglish’ is the official language of the youth. Here are some words/ phrases that will make your trip to Delhi a lil easier & much more fun!

   

GREETINGS

Hello.  Namaste.

How are you?  Aap kaise hain?

See you later.  Baad mein milenge.

Take care.  Apna khyaal rakhna.

Thanks.  Shukriya / Dhanyavad.

WHILE SHOPPING

How much is this?  Yeh kitne ka hai?

This is very expensive.  Yeh bahut mehenga hai.

Give a better price.  Kam daam do

Ok I’ll take it.  Theek hai, de do

I don’t want it.  Nahin chahiye

FOOD RELATED

Can I have the menu.  Menu deejiye.

Don’t make it spicy.  Mirchi mat daalna.

Water.  Paani.

Tea.  Chai.

Hurry, we’re very hungry.  Jaldi, bahut bhookh lag rahi hai.

TAKING A TAXI / AUTO

We’ll go by the meter.  Meter se jaayenge.

How far?  Kitni door?

How much?  Kitna hua?

ANIMALS (use it at your discretion)

Donkey.  Gadha.

Dog.  Kutta.

Female Dog.  Kutti.

Monkey.  Bandar.

TATTOOS (great words / phrases for tattoos)

Karma.  Karma.

Om.  Om.

Non-violence.  Ahimsa.

Truth.  Satyagrah.

Independence.  Svatantrata.

OTHERS

Leave me alone.  Peechaa chodo.

Go away.  Jao yahaan se.

Yes.  Haan.

No.  Nahin.

 

This month’s most interesting purchases

Walk into the markets of Delhi and guaranteed you’ll find something interesting and out of the ordinary. Here are my 4 most interesting purchases this month:

1. WOODEN SHAMPOO

This is a shampoo made from a bark of a tree, which is wrapped around to form a ring shape. You need to soak it in water overnight, it turns into a paste by the morning; then simply apply it on your hair while bathing. It does the job of a shampoo & a conditioner, moreover its natural, so 'good' for the hair. Now, I haven't tried it yet, but will, as soon as I can gather up the courage.

2. GOLD BRACELET

The second thing I found & bought was a really pretty gold bracelet. Now this is costume jewellery, but trust me when you look at it, it looks absolutely real. It’s a wrist band/ bracelet which fits any size wrist because its got an elastic inside it (not visible to the naked eye). Its embellished with pretty bright blue stones, with little white pearls dangling from it. So its perfect for an evening out with a black or a white outfit.    

 3. UMBRELLA

A pretty embroidered umbrella that’s perfect for the Delhi summer. Its bright & colourful (yet not loud), in blues, pinks & yellows. Typical Rajasthani designs on the surface of the umbrella & acts as a great accessory for your outfit.

 

4. HEAD & SCALP MASSAGER

My last purchase is totally out of this world & also looks like an alien gadget. Its got long silver spikes made out of stainless steel flexible wires. All you need to do is wear it like a cap, press it up & down. It massages your head & instantly reduces tiredness and completely relaxes you.